Ulpotha is a calm breath of fresh air. Named one of the best yoga retreats in the world, Ulpotha is an oasis in the playful heart of vibrant Sri Lankan jungle. Despite impressive accolades from glossy publications such as Vogue, Conde Nast Traveller and Taschen, this little pocket of peace remains humbly rooted in a low-key simplicity.

A mud hut amongst the trees

Four dusty hours north-east of bustling Colombo, Ulpotha rests within a simple farming village. Its hand-built mud huts, overlooking green rice paddies or hidden amongst ancient vines, welcome guests from all corners of the world. 

To the village residents, this retreat is their home. During the 9 months a year in which Ulpotha opens its doors to curious travellers, the little community work to look after retreat guests. They clean, tend to the gardens and prepare delicious, fresh and flavourful meals using organic produce grown on site. Impressively, this socially-conscious retreat sustains the village through fair employment, as well as offering a free Ayurvedic traditional medicine clinic that serves the local community.

So fresh and so clean... Photo courtesy of Shirley Srey

Did I mention that there is no electricity, wi-fi or mobile connection here? No fridges or air conditioning, no interminable humming of electrical appliances and artificial lighting. Instead, the jungle plays for you its own symphony of humming dragonflies, crooning owls and mumbling frogs.

During my stay, I was fortunate to meet Viren, one of the owners of Ulpotha. A charismatic storyteller, he shared with us the serendipitous conception of Ulpotha. Viren admits that he would have been reluctant to visit, let alone help to create a place like Ulpotha, had someone described the idea to him twenty years ago! 

Farming organic vegetables

It was pure luck that led Viren to the beautiful sprawling jungle on which Ulpotha now sits. In awe of its beauty and serenity, he bought it on an impulse during a trip across the island with his friends. After two years, Viren was at a cross-roads with Ulpotha; its upkeep was eating into his finances, with no discernible end in sight. A late-night chat with a friend, followed by a chance encounter with a yoga instructor, recruited Ulpotha co-founder Giles and the concept of turning it into a yoga retreat.

The no-electricity feature of the retreat was also completely accidental. In fact, the owners had every intention to install electricity - until they discovered that a retreat without electricity, plastic, or WiFi were exactly why so many stressed-out souls seeking solace from the hyper-connected modern world had flown across the world to this tropical tear-shaped island.

Meditating on a rock. Photo courtesy of Shirley Srey

There are two yoga classes a day, run by world class yoga teachers who stay for two weeks at a time. I am grateful to have learned from the kind and knowledgeable Bo and Shirley Srey. Their approach to yoga and meditation is gentle yet challenging, and always supportive and encouraging. I learned so much from my weeks with them. Beyond being wonderful yoga teachers, Bo and Shirley are wonderful people, and I will always remember our conversations infused with incense and laughter, as we sip sweet papaya juice.

You don't have to be a yoga junkie to stay at Ulpotha. There is plenty to do besides yoga, and I spent my days cycling, swimming in the lake, visiting nearby towns, temples and historical sites such as Sigiriya. Meals are served buffet-style in a beautiful open pavilion, creating many opportunities for great conversations and meeting new people. Yoga classes are optional (although it would be a shame to miss out). Every day at Ulpotha is a gentle lesson to "take it easy". Take your time; connect with nature, connect with others, and connect with yourself.  

Fresh flower arrangements everywhere. Photo courtesy of Shirley Srey